In September 2024, after many years of solo travel across the US, I finally took my first solo trip overseas. Inspired by the countless pictures I had seen of the fjords of Norway over the years, I finally got to see them for myself.
The sights were spectacular, but too much time was spent “on rails”, both literally on a cross-country train and figuratively on ferries and scenic drives, so I vowed to return again. It turned out to happen pretty quickly, as I decided to take a “mid-career gap year” and travel as much as I could in 2025. After my apartment lease ended in April, I couldn’t get back to Norway fast enough. Here are a few pictures from that trip.
Stavanger
My first stop was Stavanger, Norway’s third-largest city, referred to by some as the “gateway to the fjords”.
After settling in, I rented a car and drove down the Jaeren Scenic Route. In an effort to promote tourism, Norway designated 18 routes around the country as National Scenic Routes. They’re great and pack a lot of different scenery into short drives.
Jaeren isn’t the kind of scenery you expect from Norway. Instead of the fjords it’s sandy beaches and farmland. It wasn’t the most spectacularly beautiful place I had ever been but it was nice to see the diversity of the country’s landscapes, and it was nice enough to see twice: in an attempt to get off rails, I soon rented a bike and rode down the Jaeren Scenic Route as well.
Eventually I decided to rent a car one more time and drive a second Scenic Route and a little bit of a third – Ryfylke, plus a bit of Hardanger. Unlike Jaeren, Ryfylke takes you from the fjords to the mountains.
Despite all that, probably my favorite thing to do in Stavanger was sit by the water and watch the clouds and boats go by.
JUMP Adventure
My original plan for part 2 of the trip was to spend extended time in and around Bergen, Norway’s second-largest city and the base of most of my trip the previous September. But in March as I was making plans, I saw an Instagram story from Traveling Jackie, a travel writer, podcaster, and group adventure tour designer that I’ve followed for a few years: she had an upcoming tour in Norway. Starting in Bergen. Ending on the way to the city I would be in next. At the same time that I would be there. And there was only one spot left.
I hesitated. It wasn’t cheap, and not all the activities appealed to me, but after sleeping on it I said yes and booked the trip.
The first few days were chill. We spent a little time in Bergen before our first two ferry rides took us to the small island that would be our home base for two nights.
Over the next ten days we hiked, biked, and climbed a via ferrata as we island-hopped across the fjords. Unfortunately I didn’t get as many opportunities with my camera during those days.
Some of the most scenic sights of the trip were seen from a kayak, as we paddled around and camped on the Hjørundfjord, considered by some to be the most beautiful fjord in Norway. The weather that day wasn’t perfect but the sun peeked through the clouds around dinner time.
The next-best views came from cabins on a lake, not a fjord. As we ate dinner, one of the most brilliant rainbows I had ever seen shone on the mountains in front of us.
Group travel was very different from my usual solo travels. I met some awesome people I never would have met otherwise. I did fun things I would not have attempted on my own. More than once I considered just walking away from the whole thing. But overall it was probably the best part of my time in Norway.
On the last day the group made our way to a small airport where I said goodbye to everyone else as they flew to Oslo on their way home. I took a bus north instead. For the first time in 10 days I was on my own again.
Ålesund
Stop number 3 was Ålesund, considered by many to be the most beautiful city in Norway. The city was rebuilt with a consistent Art Deco style after a fire in 1904.
Unfortunately after spending the previous ten days with a great group of new friends, I found myself in a bit of a post-trip hangover. At least the views from my Airbnb were fantastic.
Eventually I did make it out and got to enjoy the sights in, around, and especially above the city.
I also returned to the Hjørundfjord again, this time by fjord cruise. It’s a little easier on the arms that way.
Departing Ålesund, I took a bus to Kristiansund where I had the most expensive burrito of my life, then a beautiful ferry ride to Trondheim where I baked in the sun for a couple 80° days, then a 10-hour train ride to cross the Arctic Circle and reach Bodø, and finally another ferry ride to my final major destination of the trip, the Lofoten archipelago.
Lofoten
Norway is of course known for its fjords, where the mountains grow out of the sea. But Lofoten brings it to another level of beauty. As you ride the ferry from Bodø you slowly watch the islands come into view.
My home for the next 11 days was an Airbnb room in the small village of Reine. Calling Reine beautiful undersells it a little bit. Many call it the most beautiful place they’ve ever been, and I find it hard to disagree with that.
Over my eleven days I passed that iconic view of the town many times. Being north of the Arctic Circle in mid June meant that the sun never set, but the clouds and mountains helped create dramatic lighting.
Lofoten is not designed for the amount of visitors it receives - the roads are few, small, and narrow. Not wanting to contribute to the congestion, I explored the region on foot. Incredible scenery abounds in all directions.
On sunny afternoons I would look up and see the crowds on Reinebringen, one of the most iconic viewpoints in Norway. Not wanting to do the strenuous hike with a line of people in front of and behind me, I planned to go off-hours, knowing the sun would be up anytime I went. So for my birthday I got up at 4 AM and had the hike almost to myself. The chocolate muffin I had at the top was probably the worst birthday cake of my life, but definitely the best scenery.
Unfortunately, all good things must come to an end. As June ended I took the ferry back to Bodø, then flew south to Oslo. After a few days of rest, it was time to head home.
… But the story doesn’t end there.
Back in September
Bookended by a week in the UK and a stopover in Iceland, I found myself back in Norway in September. Everything I saw in May and June was beautiful, but the landscapes painted in autumn colors the previous year had been yet another level of spectacular, and I knew I had to see them again. This time, I rented a car and drove primarily around the interior of the country, focusing on additional Scenic Routes and places that I hadn’t seen before. Whereas in May and June I traveled slowly to really try to experience the cities and culture, this was going to be a real adventure trip.
I wound up driving five Scenic Routes over the two weeks I was there. While they were all beautiful, and I would recommend any of them for someone visiting Norway, they do tend to blend together a little bit. I’d say the diversity of sights on a single route is greater than the diversity across routes, at least for the ones I saw.
Valdresflye was the first Scenic Route and a great re-introduction to Norway. Snow-capped peaks in the distance, abundant rivers and waterfalls, and the golden shades of autumn.
Rondane National Park was a highlight of the trip, both the Scenic Route and a long day hike into the park right from my hotel.
Sognefjellet had some of the most incredible overlooks I had seen in Norway. I especially loved seeing the houses in the valleys from above.
Aurlandsfjellet was the only repeat of a place I had been in September 2024. The light was magical that first time and I almost didn’t go back that way because I didn’t want to feel underwhelmed, but snowfall the night before meant that I’d get some slightly new views so I decided to go for it. I’m glad I did.
Finally, Hardangervidda on the way back to Oslo. The fall colors on the sides of the hills were incredible.
Once again I ended the trip in Oslo, which said farewell with a beautiful sunset on my last night.
I had a lot of fun on my Norway road trip. But the roads in Norway are challenging. The speed limits are low but despite the threat of expensive speeding tickets, the local drivers seem to rarely obey them. Other than a few sections of the largest highways, most of the roads are only a single lane in each direction. And many rural roads are not even wide enough for 2 vehicles to pass. Worst of all, every day I saw countless beautiful things when I had a steering wheel in my hands instead of a camera and no place to pull over. I might have captured one out of every million incredible sights. I was still stuck on rails.
But you live, you learn, and you try again. And I will return to Norway again.
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